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Ensign Sailing Forum

DEMASTED -El' BOB-Arino (E1610) -Any Advice on...
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Sorry for the typo, the class rule specifies 26 feet 3+3/4 inches maximum

Pete

Rob,

According to ECA Rule Part II 6.A.

"The official length of the Ensign forestay from eye center to eye center including turnbuckle, toggle and any stretch when turnbuckle is pinned in its maximum extended position shall be no greater than 26 feet 3+3/4 inches."


I use Quantum sails and their tuning guide for the Ensign recommends that the best overall length for your forestay is 26 feet 3 inches and pinning it there and leaving it alone after that. This might vary slightly with a different sailmaker so you can check with your sailmaker. The idea is when you want maximum depth for power the forestay is at its full length and in heavy air to get a flatter sail you flatten your sail with mast bend by increasing backstay tension.


Hope this helps.


Pete Kogut

#856 The White Lady



All,

So I have a new mast from Ensign Spars (fully rigged with standing rigging) and a new Harken Roller Furler (7410.10) w the 5/16 Toggle Assembly.


My rigger is confused. The headstay may be too long to accommodate the furler w the toggle assembly as purchased from Ensign Spars.

He is asking: What is the "pin to pin" measurement? Assuming he means from the top headstay attachment to the boat bow /bottom headstay attachment.


Anyone know?


Regards,

Rob


Rob Briede

(703)861-1397

El' BOB-Arino (E1610)

Sure thing!  The drawing helped me figure out the rigging of my new (to me) Ensign. 

Chance Geurin

Chance,

 

Can I put your improved drawing in the Library of the ECA website?

 

Vic Roberts

 

Awesome: Thanks- Appreciated!

Rob Briede

Sent from my iPhone

Well done. Thanks.

In a message dated 4/13/2024 8:18:41 AM Pacific Daylight Time, ensignsailing@ensignclass.com writes:
 
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I took the faded drawing from the library and made it a bit easier to read.

 

Chance

Vesper #403


Attachment(s):
Ensign_Mast_Assembly_Blueprint.jpg (8.1 MB)

I took the faded drawing from the library and made it a bit easier to read.


Chance

Vesper #403

Rob-


Here is a picture of the shroud tangs on 1658, a 1977 boat. I think that I have some others from last year's rebuild. I will keep looking.


I am glad that this seems to be working out for you.


Stan Murphy

Nana 1658

Hartfield, Virginia

Rob,

Here is a link to some slightly upgraded mast blueprints.

They're not perfect, but better than the faded one in the document library.


Best regards,
Bud Brown



Rob,

 

I don’t have a better diagram, but I’ve attached some photos of the top of 2032’s mast that might help.

 

The top tang is for the spinnaker halyard.

The middle tang is the forestay.

The lower tang is the jib halyard.

 

Vic Roberts

 

Rob,
Not sure I can help, but was keen to see your Deale location.  I live off the South River in Riva, MD and have Hull 1515.  If it would help you could look at my mast. Yonder's still out of the water on her trailer in Mayo area (Holiday Point Marina) 

Tad Asbury
cell 240-515-8154

All,

I purchased a new mast with complete rigging from Ensign Spars. Everything is pre-drilled and the components came neatly packaged in a box. Problem is, no instructions, no diagram, no components list. Trying to get some further guidance from Ensign Spars without luck. My rigging shop in Deale Md. is confused as how it all goes together to get the proper tang placement for the stays and shrouds. The rigging diagram on this site is faded to the point I can't read it.


Does anyone have a rigging diagram for our Ensign boats?


Regards,

Rob


Rob Briede

(703)861-1397

El'BOB-Arino (E1610)

I have a used mast without standing rigging if your interested. 

Zeke

I'm interested to learn what you mean by "the port center shroud detached from the chainplate." Did the bolts holding the chainplate shear? Did the section of the hull the chainplates attach to fail? Reason I'm asking is that I had moisture entering the area where the chainplates are fastened caused cracks due to winter freezing. Have since reinforced and repaired, but I'm always concerned about the integrity of the 60 year old plywood enclosed.


Dick Beverly

Tracy #963


Roger that.
I have the deriggers on hold until the insurance inspector has finished his/her inspection.

Regards,
Rob Briedde
(703) 861-1397
I would suggest speaking with your insurance company before you do too much disassembly.  Pictures of mast and torn sails.  


Take pictures.  It may help 



Great advice, thanks Stan,
Regards,
Rob Briede
Hello Rob,

It sounds like you need to get the sail off of the mast so that the two pieces of the mast can be removed from the boat.  If the sail is attached to the mast with a bolt rope in the mast groove, you probably need to get up to the top of the lower section.

To go aloft, a ladder can be used.  Set the ladder up on the foredeck.  Tie the bottom of the ladder back to the mast where the mast goes through the deck so the bottom cannot kick out. Get the foot of the sail off of the boom.  Climb the ladder.  Tie the top of the ladder to both forward lower shrouds.  

Now that you have a somewhat safe perch, you can open the slot with a screwdriver at the break if the break caused the slot to pinch closed.  At this point, you can either pull the sail up and out of the lower section or you may be able to force the bolt rope at the break out of the slot so you can pull the sail down without further sail damage.

This will leave you with a lower mast section still in the boat.  To get the lower section out of the boat:

1. Remove the spreader tubes from their bases. This will remove some weight aloft.
2. Remove the ladder.
3. Remove the lower shrouds from the chainplates at the deck.
4. Two average adult males with some agility can lift the remaining lower section up and out of the deck so that they can lower the section as if lowering a ladder. Keep body weight centered on the boat so the boat does not tip side to side.

As I am 8 hours drive time away,  I cannot accept any liability in regard to your actions on the above suggestions.  If you are not experienced or feel uncomfortable in following the above approach, secure the services of a boat yard or rigger.

I have a couple of used masts available in Niantic, CT.  If you can get your boat here over the road you could have one for a nominal fee.  Masts are carried atop Ensigns all the time.  

Why do you suppose the upper shrouds became detached from the chainplates?  Were there no cotter pins/rings in the clevis pins?  Were there no cotter pins in the turnbuckle studs within the turnbuckle bodies?  The cotter pins/rings are vital in preventing loosening of the turnbuckles and or loss of the turnbuckle to chainplate clevis pin.

Ward Woodruff
1253, Smoke
Niantic, CT 06357

Rob-


It occurred to me overnight that you might want to contact one of the Ensign fleets on either side of you in St. Mary's and St. Michaels. Leadership in Fleet 10 (St. Mary's) where my boat had been active, was very helpful in the early stages of my restorarion and at the time (although now years ago), they had extra boats and parts on hand. They might even have a spare mast. At a minimum, they may have knowledge about someone in your area who has been through a mast replacement. Look in the Ensign yearbook for contact information.


You might also consider placing a "Wanted" ad in the classified section of this forum.


If you have to drive locally to pick up a mast or extrusion, renting a 25' moving truck is an easy answer. I moved my old mast that way from the yard where it had been stored to the restoration shop and it fit in the truck fine. I needed to cushion each end and flag the little bit that overhung the truck door after tying the spar down.


Stan Murphy

NANA

1658

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