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The North Sailing guide is wrong about the speed of the boat.  In conditions above 12 kts the boat points higher and has good speed up wind.   Down wind, a spinnaker should be used, the blade can remain hoisted and helps steering.  The #2 Genoa, which is not a full hoist and was meant to be the all purpose foresail has a limited range of use.  Too big to keep the boat flat in a blow, too small to compete with the #1 170% “light air” genoa.

Short handed or light weight, the Blade / 100% genoa will shine if used wisely.

James

#2021 Spirit, AYC Fleet #30


On Nov 5, 2019, at 2:05 AM, Ensign Sailing Forum <ensignsailing@ensignclass.com> wrote:

Message Subjects/Links
Is there a Class Rule on blade jib track position??  Posted by: Zeke Durica on 11/4/2019 at 10:35 AM
Newbie with Rebuild questions....  Posted by: Bud Brown on 11/4/2019 at 6:49 AM
Message Details
Subject: Is there a Class Rule on blade jib track position??
View/reply online     Reply via email to: ensignsailing@ensignclass.com
Randy

For racing you have to install them where the Class indicates. If for cruising the better location is along the outboard edge of the cabin deck. As far outboard as possible. 
I tried for years to change to the more efficient and proper location but the thinking at the time was everyone had them already mounted so if everyone had them in the same place it wouldn't matter for one design racing. 
Hope this helps.

Zeke

On Sat, Nov 2, 2019 at 1:07 PM Ensign Sailing Forum <ensignsailing@ensignclass.com> wrote:



We have a Blade jib for #1198 but no Blade jib tracks.   The Deck Plan Blueprint available in the ECA Library shows a position for the blade jib tracks substantially narrower than the working jib tracks.  The North Sails Sailmaker Trimming Guide in the ECA Library for the Blade  states:    "  1.  The lead position (tracks) are placed too close to the centerline of the boat.  This chokes the slot and makes the boat slow......6.  This is due to the backwind into the main, because of the narrow sheeting angle."

  Question about installing the tracks:  Do the Class rules dictate that the track position shown in the Deck Plan Blueprint is the only option?    IF not, can someone provide the optimal track position that cures the slot choking - boat slowing problem??

 Thanks for your help!

 Randy Barnett
 RandallBarnett@yahoo.com


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Subject: Newbie with Rebuild questions....
View/reply online     Reply via email to: ensignsailing@ensignclass.com     Reply via email to: Bud Brown (sailorbud1085@gmail.com)
Peter,

I just finished rebuilding #1085's interior.

Feel free to to call and discuss.


On Sun, Nov 3, 2019 at 7:41 PM Ensign Sailing Forum <ensignsailing@ensignclass.com> wrote:
Hello,

My father-in-law passed down his old ensign that is in need of some solid upgrades. I'm sure I will have thousands of questions, but my first has tot do with the interior.  The bulkheads were crumbling, and I cut them out after making templates.  I did notice that the foam was damp and decided to cut the tops off the bunks and replace the foam.  My question, are those bunks considered a "structural" piece?  I was thinking I might tab in cleats and screw them down after replacing foam, but didn't want to upset structural loads.  I can fillet them in if people feel it's necessary/required, but looking to make them easier to deal with in future.  Thank you for any help!


-- 
Best regards,

Bud Brown
ECA Rules Vice Commodore

281.468.6909 cell and text
410.489.5426 home and office
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Re the epoxy one very important point. The screws must be absolutely clean of oils, including from fingers. Wash with alcohol at the least.

    Christian


On 10/21/2018 9:43 AM, Ensign Sailing Forum wrote:
Thanks for the great explanation!  I'll give it a whirl!  Any specific epoxy you recommend? It seems that if I am just sealing the screws, any epoxy should work?

Thanks again,

Doug Watson #814*
Birmingham, AL (sans West Marine)

*I think


Thanks for the great explanation!  I'll give it a whirl!  Any specific epoxy you recommend? It seems that if I am just sealing the screws, any epoxy should work?

Thanks again,

Doug Watson #814*
Birmingham, AL (sans West Marine)

*I think
Doug,

The mast partners should be flat and a good place to measure level.  It's easy to rotate a level there.  So you don't have to guess center, drop the plumb 4 times and market fore, aft, port and starboard, then find the center of those.

To make sure the base plate is true fore and aft, tie a line from the bow plate to the stern chainplate, fairly tight.  After you place the plate, step back into the cockpit and sight it through the line.  Adjust if needed before screwing.

It's a good idea to epoxy the screw holes.  Drill pilot holes, run the screws in, remove, epoxy the holes with a small brush, and run the screws back in.  It should cure waterproof.  Drain holes in the cabin floor are a good idea, aft of the step, also epoxied. 

Stainless screws are fine, the largest that will fit the plate, by 1 1/2" or shorter.  The floor isn't that thick.

Take your time, and good luck!

Jon Simpson
Ensign 160
Region 1 Commander

Sent from my Verizon Smartphone
On Oct 21, 2018 3:10 AM, Ensign Sailing Forum <ensignsailing@ensignclass.com> wrote:
Message Subjects/Links
Placement of new mast step  Posted by: DOUGLAS WATSON on 10/20/2018 at 10:10 PM
Message Details
Subject: Placement of new mast step
Esteemed Ensign Experts,

I recently bought a project boat in which I assume the floor under the mast had been redone.  The owner sold the boat to me before the mast step was reseated.  So, I need to properly locate the new mast step and screw it in place.  A few steps of this process have me scratching my head.  I believe I first have to level the boat, then use a plumb bob to mark plumb underneath the middle of the mast hole in the deck.  Then locate the mast step underneath the plumb mark.  Then, screw the metal mast plate in place.  Does that sound right?

If so, I have a few questions about this:
1) what is the best practice for measuring level on the boat?  Is there a certain location to place the level, both laterally and longitudinally?
2) What screws do I use to screw the base down to the deck?
3) Is there something I should do to the deck or screws first to prevent moisture from getting down into the screw holes and rotting out the new flooring?

I looked online for guidance, but didn't find anything that answered these questions - but, of course, I'd gladly take a link to a video or an article that explains it!  Thanks in advance!
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