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Old questions and answers, from Skip Nitchie (First ECA Webmaster & Past Secretary/Treasurer)
Old but good!
This page will be used for Ensign folks to ask questions and receive answers on any Ensign subject. It was prompted by a letter received through Contact Us and I felt the questions are excellent. I feel a lot of folks might want to know the answers so I am posting the questions. I have asked the National Champions and top 5 finishers to answer. I will also have the answers sent to the newsletter editor for an article on the answers plus start to promote Q and A though the newsletter and web site.
9. From: Rick Bronstein
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On Removing rudder: When dropping rudder (for rebuilding) is it necessary to remove BOTH the strappings from the keel AND the base shoe --or just one of them?
Skip: Just the strap. This was my way. I have rebuilt about 5 rudders as the glue that Pearson used seems to go bad. In doing that I always had to take the rudder and its post out from under the boat. The brass strap you mentioned, is not to bad a problem. Drill out the heads of the copper bar that goes through it (one side only), punch it out, spread the strap to remove it, lift the rudder post up about an inch, pull it beside the keel block you mentioned and drop the post and rudder down and out. A strong suggestion. Drill a 1/2 to 3/8 hole in the top of the rudder post. Insert a rod or drill bit into it when you replace the assembly. This rod after it passes through the bushing at the top of the rudder post tube will help you steer the whole rudder post through the bushing.
The next problem is to replace the strap. Buy a piece of soft copper the size of the one you drilled out earlier. Cut it so about 3/8" protrudes out each side of the strap. The peen it into the counter sunk holes of the strap. I use two sledge hammers to make the job fairly easy. You will be surprised how easy this is. It is probably a good idea to throw a little epoxy or rubber sealer into the rod's hole to keep the hole water tight. I have had a problem a couple of times finding a copper bar of the same diameter I took out and have used just 00 gage wire. Most electrical supply houses will just give it to you when you tell them what you are going to use it for and you only need about a foot. When you are done, fair in the strap with epoxy fill. I saw one boat at the Nationals that the keel was thinned down for the strap and the you couldn't tell it was there except where it went around the rudder post.
8. From: Margaret Hill (
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I am trying to find a model of the Pearson Ensign for a gift. Can you help?
MARGRET, I KNOW THEY EXIST BUT I DON"T KNOW WHERE. WE WILL GET TO THE EXPERTS.
Skip: Checkout the following web sites:
http://www.awards4sailing.com/ Singleman's
http://www.halfhulls.com/ Fraley Sailing Art, Inc.
http://www.halfmodels.com/website.htm Haldor Half Models
http://www.artofthesea.com ART of the SEA
7. From: Gerry Lancto <
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Can you tell me if there is a source of parts for an Ensign?
Skip: Yes, Zeke Durica has every part for an Ensign and sell them through his company Ensign Spars.
6. From: Cleaveland Horton <
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Hello, I have an electra sail number 77. do you know where I can find information on the boat.
Skip: Try http://www.jollytime.net/ a website for Electra's.
5. From: Dennis Cox, Wading River, NY
I would like to know if anyone knows what the PHRF# is for the ensign?
Skip: The PHRF for an Ensign, as you may know, has different values in different areas. We use 262 in Colorado. Others are as follows:
Chesapeake, Northwest, Wichita Falls (TX) all are 264
New England, Eastern LI Sound and Oneida Lake (NY) use 276
Southern California 288
Northern California, Lake Michigan use 270
Mid Atlantic, Lake Erie, Dallas use 258
Narragansett Bay is 255
The Gulf is 246
This gives you an idea but your area probably has its own PHRF like most areas.
Do others want to comment?
4. From: Rob Zimmerman Hilo, HI
I live in Hawaii and would very much like to meet and talk with anyone in Hawaii with an Ensign. I am willing to travel to any island. Thanks. (
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Skip: I have no owner listed in Hawaii. I did hear, but can't verify it, that one was sailed to the islands. I think it would be foolhardy with such an open boat. If you find one, let us know.
3. From someone named Cushydog whoever he is:
I have been racing on my by friends boat for several years, but we continue to do poorly. Some questions I have would surely help us in the future.
1) When tacking, should they be quick and sharp, or, since it is a heavy boat, keep boat speed and then round the mark on a larger radius?
Tom Groll: Depends on the wind and wave conditions. If the wind is light, a larger turning radius should help keep up your boat speed. In heavy air, tack sharply and get your crew weight on the high side ASAP! In any condition, the helmsman MUST pay close attention to tacking onto the new close hauled course. Curly Q's and S shapes in your stern wake indicate a poorly maneuvered tack.
Ebbe Reker: Sharp stops the boat. The question seems to mix tacks and mark roundings. Leeward mark roundings are almost always best taken wide, but tactical situation could possibly mitigate. On tacks, make the radius just long enough not to break momentum. You can almost feel yourself being centrifuged out of a sling when you make the right tack.
Webguy: The path of the tack is only one of the critical elements of tacking. The goal is to keep momentum and leave the turn with optimum speed. Due to the boat being heavy, err on too large a radius. The stronger the wind, the smaller the radius but never all the way hard over. Practice with the jib release for maximum thrust. Insure there is no backwinding of the jib by getting the windward sheet released fast. Roll tack and practice with the crew especially in lighter air. Don't stop your turn too early and if anything go a little too far and come back up to close hauled to insure no lost speed.
Mark Swanson: I turn the boat in a tack in between 5 and 6 seconds. Rounding the mark should be a larger radius.
2) In light wind, how far far off the spreader should the jib be.
Tom Groll: This depends on the cut of your sail. In light air, I keep it 3" - 6" off the spreader, however, the headsail should be trimmed continuously in light air conditions since it is quicker and easier to trim the sail than to turn the boat. This takes a lot of practice between the helmsman and the sail trimmer.
Ebbe Reker: Depends also on the water. In flat water, you can go closer than you think. Watch the water behind you to gauge speed differences at various settings. Generally 3 - 8 inches. your rig tune has a lot to do with it.
Mark Swanson: I don't go by the spreader. I go by the distance of the foot from the shrouds and the distance of the upper leach from the shroud. In all wind strengths up to 20 k I let the foot touch and slightly bend around the base of the shrouds and the upper leach just kiss the upper shroud. If there are waves I ease the sheet a couple of inches.
3) When the spinnaker is up, where should the weight be of the people on | board be?
Tom Groll: In light air, keep the weight concentrated toward the center of gravity of the boat, or slightly to leeward to induce enough heel to keep the shoot full. In heavy air, keep the weight aft and to windward to keep the bow from digging in and to keep the boat flat.
Ebbe Reker: Depends on wind velocity. The harder it blows the more weight aft. You don't want the bow down, and you don't want the transom dragging.
Mark Swanson: In smooth water I have one person on the cabin top holding the boom out and looking back at puffs and boats. 2 more are between the bulkhead and the winches and I sit just aft of the winches. In waves I bring everyone back a body width.
4) What is the best navigational tool that you could race with in the ensign class that is legal ( ie GPS, compass that lets you know falloff, etc. )?
Tom Groll: A reliable compass is all I've ever used.
Ebbe Reker: We are not allowed any of that stuff. Compass only.
Webguy: The ECA has reviewed and approved the KVH Sailcomp and the solar powered
Tacktick. They both have a good count down timer and flux gate compass. They also indicate when you are being headed or lifted.
Mark Swanson: I only use a compass.
5) When racing, is it best to stay close to shore, with an incoming high tide? What about low tide?
Tom Groll: Depends on whether you're sailing into or with the current. Current tends to be slower the nearer to shore you sail. If you want to use the current to your advantage, get in the fastest part of it. If your fighting the current, stay near the shore.
Ebbe Reker: Entirely local conditions. We have the tide ripping around spits and bluffs and through narrows, and eddies in the hollows. If you have the opportunity, go out on a boat with a knot meter, anchor for two minutes at different points in your waters, and note the speed of the current at mid tide on your chart.
Mark Swanson: In general when going against the tide stay close to the shore and stay in deep water when going with the tide. There other many factors that will change this and it is a major subject all by it self.
6) How often should you replace your sails when racing over the years
Tom Groll: How rich are you? Class rules allow replacing your suit of sails once a year. Some people actually do this. But before you put $3,000 into your annual sailing budget consider this: Good crew work and good tactics win races. Until you've worked out the kinks in the mechanics of your boat handling, and become comfortable with making good, sound, tactical decisions, a fast set of sails will only take you in the wrong direction quicker.
Ebbe Reker: At this point, every four years. when you get to the middle of the fleet, every three. top quartile, every two.
Mark Swanson: I am new to the class this year but my experience with similar classes is
that for top level fleet racing you can 2 maybe 3 years out of your sails. For the Nationals I don't think that sails over a year are fully competitive.
7) How often should you scrub the bottom of your boat to keep it clean?
Tom Groll: Do it whenever your getting into a race that you want to win.
Ebbe Reker: Clean the bottom every week. Can be done from the dock, standing in the water, or diving.
Mark Swanson: I clean my bottom once a week the night before the race.
Please help, the season is almost over and we plan on going to the nationals in Florida next year.
Sorry the Nationals are in Huntington LI NY. The Mid-Winters will be in Florida.
2. From Mike Scott, Peoria, AZ
As a new Ensign owner (it's currently being renovated), I'm looking for information on procedure for stepping the mast without creating hernias or other injuries. Ideas? I've seen single-handed rigs described on some web pages for other boats where the step is used as the pivot-point. Is there a way to do it with an Ensign. Thanks for any ideas. -Mike
Here is the webguys answer. Any others?
There are 4 ways I know of to step a mast.
1. Three or 4 gorillas. One holding the foot and two walking the mast up and the third yelling "TIMBER." But if this doesn't work:
2. There is a gin pole. Most launch sites have them available. But if not:
3. Put boat between two secured boats that have their masts up and use their main or jib halyards to a loop below the spreaders. It takes 3 folks to do this. But if not:
4. There are several mast steppers used which are fairly simple. I have attached a picture of one that has been used at many of the Ensign regattas. It consists of a pole (usually the leftovers of a broken spar) with lines to attach it to the forestay and lower aft chain plates. The pole is about a foot or two taller than the distance from the foot to the spreaders with a 3 or 4 to 1 block and tackle to lift the mast with ease. There is usually a small board attached to the end of the pole where it sits on the deck. This spreads the load and avoids deck damage.
Remember that for 2, 3 or 4 the loop should not be a slip knot as it will close around the spreader nuts or something else and be hard to lower after the mast is in place. Second the loop should have a tail to pull it down to avoid lifting your lightest crew high in air to retrieve it.
1. As a new Ensign owner with an old cursed engine that does not seem to like me, I was wondering is there a recommended good modern 4 stroke engine that would go well this fine craft? Arthur I. Slotnick
Dean Snider - Fleet 2 in Houston seems to be partial to the Nissan 3.5 HP motor with long shaft. Only weighs 27 # and has its own fuel tank.
Ron Hoffman - Almost all of us at the Nyack Boat Club use the 4 HP Evinrude. Its enough to fight the current of the Hudson and it will get the boat up to speed. I have towed two Ensigns at the same time and it was fine. I see no need to go to a larger engine unless you are making a lone trip in heavy weather. Biggest advantage is its weight. Approx. 35lbs. Its a two stroke and runs great.
Russ Carr - I got a new 4.5 HP Evinrude and it is running fine. Recently I saw a 5 HP Mercury 4-cycle for about $1350. Looked good to me and it meets specs for 2006. Honda makes a good small 4-cycle engine too.
Commodore Bill O'Hara - I use a 3 HP Evinrude, which pushes me along at five knots, and starts in two or three pulls. It is light, and easy to put on and take off. [Another sailor] just bought a two HP motor (I believe a Honda), which is even lighter, and almost as fast.
Charlie Sligh - The Honda two cycle 2 hp is the best from all I've herd. I have a 3 ½ - 2 cycle and just BAD gas all over in cabin John Jayne and Jack Collins has the same and theirs does same thing.
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