Ensign Spars website sells new rudder shoes if you want to take a look.

https://shop.ensignspars.com/collections/ensign-specific/products/rudder-shoe-bronze

Robert Brandt

#261

If you sand that strap on one side you will see the heads of the two pins. They are just solid pins that almost have a slight rivet head. Just hit the pins out with a punch that is a bit smaller. They will drive out the other end. Mine didn't take much to come out. The tiller comes off easy but don't lose the key that keeps it from spinning. Once you lift the rudder up a bit out of the bottom support it does need to come straight down a good amount. I would say at least 2 feet or so. I don't think there are any bearings to replace.

As long as we are on the subject of rudders, I have a replacement rudder ready to be installed but I am unsure what steps need to be taken. Is there a step by step procedure with pictures to help me? Is the tiller head simple to be removed? I know the intermediate strap needs to be removed but am uncertain if I can lift the rudder out of the shoe. There is a one inch+ gap at the top of rudder. How high does the boat need to be off the ground in order to pull the shaft out? Are the strap and shoe held by pop rivets? Is there a bearing around the rudder shaft that needs to be replaced? Old rudder and new rudder attached.

Jody Graul

PLEBE YEAR - 1217

Nahant MA

Hi Jon,

That is interesting to learn about the minimum thickness. I am very fortunate to have a full woodshop at my house and a local hardwood shop that sells just about every species of wood. I already have a wide enough board to make this out of two pieces. I went with 8/4 thinking I needed to duplicate what I had on there which was 1.75. I do have a surface planner so I will be able to take it down to whatever I decide to go with. It took me a few days of searching online but I was able to find a good enough router bit for the .5 inch radius on the first piece. I will post some pictures as I get started!

Bob

Bob,

The original rudders we're/are 3 piece rather than 2, but if you find wood straight, flat, and wide enough, do it with 2.

I suggest starting with 5/4 rather than 8/4. You'll save a lot of sanding! Your shaft is 1", so that's your minimum thickness, but glassing up from that will get you back to 1.25".

In the original, the first piece was screwed to the shaft top and bottom. The middle holes let bolts through to hold the second board. There are adjustment pockets in the middle of the second, probably filled. The third piece was held to the second with both drift pins and screws.

When you measure to template, don't forget that the first piece is routed out to mate to the shaft. If you overlook this, your rudder will end up too small.

Good luck, and do post pictures when you finish!

Jon Simpson

E160 Elan

Hello,

I am in the process of building a new rudder for the Ensign that I have recently purchased. I have been lucky that I have been able to trace a few rudders and compare what's left of mine to others. I'm confident that I have the shape and I plan on making a two piece rudder starting off with 8/4 South American mahogany. Here are my questions that I'm hoping someone could help out with.

1) Out of the few Ensign rudders that I have compared, I can't seem to find a constant thickness of the highest thickness of the rudder. I understand the class rules regarding shaping the rudder to the trailing edge but I can't determine what thickness I should start with. My current rudder piece that is left on the shaft is 1.75 inches. I measured one today that was 1.25 inches and I measured one that was just built by a boat yard that was 1 inch at its max thickness. I'm thinking of just going with 1.5 inches and calling it a day. Anyone know what it should be?

2) The bolts and lags in the rudder, are they bronze or brass? Does anyone know a good place online to get new bolts that size with that shape head?

3) Being a two piece rudder I'm going to get creative by using threaded rod and nuts on each end of a mortise in the wood to secure the two pieces from ever separating apart compared to the original drifts that must have been used. Can I get away with just saturating the rudder in epoxy without using fiberglass cloth? I'm concerned with trying to cloth that tight of a radius with cloth.

Thanks for any input!

Bob

Mucho Gusto

1968 Ensign #1377