help_outline Skip to main content

ECA Logo Version 11 

Slideshow
Header Slideshow
Add Me To Your Mailing List

Ensign Sailing Forum

DEMASTED -El' BOB-Arino (E1610) -Any Advice on...
Robert Briede

In very light winds (5-7kts) in the middle of the Chesapeake Bay, El' BOB-Arino de-masted in a light gust on a port tack yesterday 8/20. Don't know why. Believe maybe the center port shroud detached at the chain-plate. Both center shroud's were detached after the incident. The mast broke at the top of the spreader fitting with the top half (w sails and rigging) spilling over the starboard side. Very clean cut....like it was sawed off. 1610 is stable in its slip at Chalk Point Marina in the West River in Maryland with the top of the mast in the cabin and broken portion hung up on the starboard spreader with the sail, shrouds, halyards holding it on. I've tied everything to the remaining mast stub so the rest doesn't come down in the marina.


Looking for / requesting guidance. First boat bought to teach the family how to sail. Nearly mission accomplished with the wife skippering yesterday when the incident happened (would love to blame this on her.....but really can't....joking) :).


What are my next steps? I called around for estimates to get the rest of the mast down and de-rigged. Assuming that's the first step. Need to take a systematic approach. Boat cover doesn't quite fit now, so protecting the cabin/sole is a priority. Want to preserve what's left as best possible. New mast??, Used Mast?? Haul out??


Thank you for any help.

Regards,

Rob


Rob Briede

(703) 861-1397

El'BOB-Arino (E1610)

Guy Sirois
Hi Rob,

So sorry to hear of the demasting.  Glad everybody is ok.  Is there any damage to the partner/cabin top?  Can you send pics?  I think if at all possible and safe you should perhaps try and get the sails off.  I am pretty sure you will need a new mast but I defer to others in the forum with more experience with spars if a repair is possible.  Probably needs to get hauled out so the mast can be removed safely.  Once the mast is out you can consider putting the lower portion of the mast back in the boat so that you can attach the boom and be able to use the cover again.  The lower mast section can be cut even shorter to be used as a support for the boom and the cover in the winter or when the new mast is not on the boat.

Buddy has some recent experience with this.

Best,

Guy Sirois
218 Amie

Anna Gorbold
Get in touch with Bob Conkey / Greg Collins who run Ensign Spars:


--


Anna Gorbold
585 261 3300
E Stanley Murphy

I agree that you should contact Ensign Spars. I have heard of people sleeving masts if the break is clean, but you would end up shortening the rig and the mast snap alread has told you that there is a lot of load up there. I would be skeptical about anything other than a new extrusion, so it is not too early to find a rigger, who will need to transfer the hardware from the old mast. You will find many riggers just north of you in Annapolis. They also can help you source a new extrusion.


I have just finished a complete restoration of 1658 (photos follow), and we toyed with the idea of replacing the mast and boom but sourcing became a problem,


Apparently Rig-Rite can still supply the mast extrusion for Ensigns but they were not responsive to my yard. If you want to try them, here is the web page for masts: https://www.rigrite.com/A-Main/spar_M.php#Spar_Parts_by_Spar_Manufacturer


I spoke with Ensign Spars but never heard back with a price quote or shipping estimate. In the end, we simply painted the old extrusions, after the acid wash, primer/sealing routine.


Not certain who the orginal manufacturer of the extrusion was or whether alternatives are available. Rig-Rite calls the mast section "RR-4025." Here is a link to their page for that section: https://www.rigrite.com/Spars/Rig-Rite_Spars/RR-4025_Mast.php


I am also attaching a photo of the mast section on my boat, which matches what is shown on the Rig-Rite page.


Sorry to hear about your troubles. Good luck with the fix.


Stan Murphy

Nana

1658


Anna Gorbold
I was sorry to hear that Ensign Spars didnt reply to your enquiry.

Bob conkey and Greg Collins are the new owners of ES - i think its also important for us class members to understand that while ES is a viable business, both Bob snd Greg have their own ‘other’ businesses that make the money for them to live off!!

There was a short period of time when as ES transitioned owners that probably things got lost. But now ES is working hard to be a primary source of Ensign parts including masts. 

ES is not a west marine, or APS or Defenders  - its just 2 guys and their wives who love Ensigns and the class and they for sure have the concern and desire to specifically support Ensign owners. However as with just about everything the supply chain is complicating sourcing. 

But contact ES. 

Anna Gorbold
“Questar” 1226ves 

--


Anna Gorbold
585 261 3300
E Stanley Murphy

"I was sorry to hear that Ensign Spars didnt reply to your enquiry.


"There was a short period of time when as ES transitioned owners that probably things got lost."


My comment was not meant as criticism. This occurred about eight weeks ago, so the transition was done.You will notice that the first sentence of my reply was that the OP should contact Ensign Spars. You will also note the comment in my second post about Ensign Spars delivering a mast to the East coast.


ES responded to my email inquiry about a mast and we had a nice telephone call, but they let me know that selling an extrusion and shipping it 500 miles was not something they were excited about doing, and thay just never followed up with a price or shipping information.


Again, none of this is meant as criticism, The reality though is that the OP keeps his boat ten miles from Annapolis, where there are riggers galore who likely have better and more frequent access to spar suppliers. Transportation issues really complcate sourcing a 25' extrusion so it might be best to deal with a rigger who has experience ordering extrusions. I live in a similar place with lots of yards and suppliers, and found that getting a section that long quickly is a challenge, even here. I suggest that anyone in this spot explore all options.


Ensign Spars is my first stop for Ensign specific parts and both Chad Lewis and the new owners supplied parts for my boat. Bob Conkey expedited a rubrail insert order for me when we discovered that the insert had not been included in an earlier order. I was very grateful for that extra help and certainly do not intend to damage their business.


All of that having been said, I hope that this forum is not so restrictive that we cannot openly discuss all available options.I have spent years sourcing parts for my boat and have found that if ES does not have a part, Rig-Rite (which, BTW, was the original source for Pearson) usually has what I need.


Stan Murphy

NANA

1658

E Stanley Murphy

Rob-


I am not seeing masts on the Ensgn Spars website but I know that they sell them because they advertised an East coast delivery on these pages this winter, suggesting that they would entertain additional orders


I am attaching a screen capture for the Rig-Rite page.

Stan Murphy

NANA

1658


Vic Roberts

Bob,

 

How did you step the mast?  You can use the same method in reverse to remove the stub.  If you used a gin pole or crane, that same method can be used to remove the mast, especially since the spreaders still seem to be attached.

 

As for a replacement. Ensign Spars normally has new masts for sale, with our without the standing rigging if you want to use the rigging from your old mast. (I assume the mast failed because the center shrouds were not attached, not because they failed.)   However, if you have any question about the quality of your existing rigging, then you should get new shrouds with your new mast.  

 

A much lower cost alternative would be to find a used mast from an old Ensign.  Some older Ensigns are taken out of service due to structural issues such as badly worn deck or perhaps a keel crack, and the parts, such as the mast and boom and put up for sale. If you find an older mast, you should consider new shrouds unless you can confirm that the shrouds on the mast are in good condition. And, shipping the mast will be expensive due to its length. I assume the mast will have to be shipped by freight, as in “tractor trailer.”

 

Vic Roberts, Webmaster

 

  

 

E Stanley Murphy

Rob-


It occurred to me overnight that you might want to contact one of the Ensign fleets on either side of you in St. Mary's and St. Michaels. Leadership in Fleet 10 (St. Mary's) where my boat had been active, was very helpful in the early stages of my restorarion and at the time (although now years ago), they had extra boats and parts on hand. They might even have a spare mast. At a minimum, they may have knowledge about someone in your area who has been through a mast replacement. Look in the Ensign yearbook for contact information.


You might also consider placing a "Wanted" ad in the classified section of this forum.


If you have to drive locally to pick up a mast or extrusion, renting a 25' moving truck is an easy answer. I moved my old mast that way from the yard where it had been stored to the restoration shop and it fit in the truck fine. I needed to cushion each end and flag the little bit that overhung the truck door after tying the spar down.


Stan Murphy

NANA

1658

Robert Briede
Great advice, thanks Stan,
Regards,
Rob Briede
Jeffrey Hagman
I would suggest speaking with your insurance company before you do too much disassembly.  Pictures of mast and torn sails.  


Take pictures.  It may help 



Robert Briede
Roger that.
I have the deriggers on hold until the insurance inspector has finished his/her inspection.

Regards,
Rob Briedde
(703) 861-1397
Ward Woodruff
Hello Rob,

It sounds like you need to get the sail off of the mast so that the two pieces of the mast can be removed from the boat.  If the sail is attached to the mast with a bolt rope in the mast groove, you probably need to get up to the top of the lower section.

To go aloft, a ladder can be used.  Set the ladder up on the foredeck.  Tie the bottom of the ladder back to the mast where the mast goes through the deck so the bottom cannot kick out. Get the foot of the sail off of the boom.  Climb the ladder.  Tie the top of the ladder to both forward lower shrouds.  

Now that you have a somewhat safe perch, you can open the slot with a screwdriver at the break if the break caused the slot to pinch closed.  At this point, you can either pull the sail up and out of the lower section or you may be able to force the bolt rope at the break out of the slot so you can pull the sail down without further sail damage.

This will leave you with a lower mast section still in the boat.  To get the lower section out of the boat:

1. Remove the spreader tubes from their bases. This will remove some weight aloft.
2. Remove the ladder.
3. Remove the lower shrouds from the chainplates at the deck.
4. Two average adult males with some agility can lift the remaining lower section up and out of the deck so that they can lower the section as if lowering a ladder. Keep body weight centered on the boat so the boat does not tip side to side.

As I am 8 hours drive time away,  I cannot accept any liability in regard to your actions on the above suggestions.  If you are not experienced or feel uncomfortable in following the above approach, secure the services of a boat yard or rigger.

I have a couple of used masts available in Niantic, CT.  If you can get your boat here over the road you could have one for a nominal fee.  Masts are carried atop Ensigns all the time.  

Why do you suppose the upper shrouds became detached from the chainplates?  Were there no cotter pins/rings in the clevis pins?  Were there no cotter pins in the turnbuckle studs within the turnbuckle bodies?  The cotter pins/rings are vital in preventing loosening of the turnbuckles and or loss of the turnbuckle to chainplate clevis pin.

Ward Woodruff
1253, Smoke
Niantic, CT 06357

Richard Beverly

I'm interested to learn what you mean by "the port center shroud detached from the chainplate." Did the bolts holding the chainplate shear? Did the section of the hull the chainplates attach to fail? Reason I'm asking is that I had moisture entering the area where the chainplates are fastened caused cracks due to winter freezing. Have since reinforced and repaired, but I'm always concerned about the integrity of the 60 year old plywood enclosed.


Dick Beverly

Tracy #963


Zeke Durica
I have a used mast without standing rigging if your interested. 

Zeke

Robert Briede

All,

I purchased a new mast with complete rigging from Ensign Spars. Everything is pre-drilled and the components came neatly packaged in a box. Problem is, no instructions, no diagram, no components list. Trying to get some further guidance from Ensign Spars without luck. My rigging shop in Deale Md. is confused as how it all goes together to get the proper tang placement for the stays and shrouds. The rigging diagram on this site is faded to the point I can't read it.


Does anyone have a rigging diagram for our Ensign boats?


Regards,

Rob


Rob Briede

(703)861-1397

El'BOB-Arino (E1610)

Thomas Asbury
Rob,
Not sure I can help, but was keen to see your Deale location.  I live off the South River in Riva, MD and have Hull 1515.  If it would help you could look at my mast. Yonder's still out of the water on her trailer in Mayo area (Holiday Point Marina) 

Tad Asbury
cell 240-515-8154

Vic Roberts

Rob,

 

I don’t have a better diagram, but I’ve attached some photos of the top of 2032’s mast that might help.

 

The top tang is for the spinnaker halyard.

The middle tang is the forestay.

The lower tang is the jib halyard.

 

Vic Roberts

 

Bud Brown
Rob,

Here is a link to some slightly upgraded mast blueprints.

They're not perfect, but better than the faded one in the document library.


Best regards,
Bud Brown



E Stanley Murphy

Rob-


Here is a picture of the shroud tangs on 1658, a 1977 boat. I think that I have some others from last year's rebuild. I will keep looking.


I am glad that this seems to be working out for you.


Stan Murphy

Nana 1658

Hartfield, Virginia

Chance Geurin

I took the faded drawing from the library and made it a bit easier to read.


Chance

Vesper #403

Edward Rose
Well done. Thanks.

In a message dated 4/13/2024 8:18:41 AM Pacific Daylight Time, ensignsailing@ensignclass.com writes:
 
View/reply online
Reply to forum at ensignsailing@ensignclass.com
Reply directly to Chance Geurin at geurin@gmail.com
If this message contains inappropriate content, you can report the message online

I took the faded drawing from the library and made it a bit easier to read.

 

Chance

Vesper #403


Attachment(s):
Ensign_Mast_Assembly_Blueprint.jpg (8.1 MB)
Robert Briede
Awesome: Thanks- Appreciated!

Rob Briede

Sent from my iPhone

Vic Roberts

Chance,

 

Can I put your improved drawing in the Library of the ECA website?

 

Vic Roberts

 

Chance Geurin
Sure thing!  The drawing helped me figure out the rigging of my new (to me) Ensign. 

Chance Geurin

Robert Briede

All,

So I have a new mast from Ensign Spars (fully rigged with standing rigging) and a new Harken Roller Furler (7410.10) w the 5/16 Toggle Assembly.


My rigger is confused. The headstay may be too long to accommodate the furler w the toggle assembly as purchased from Ensign Spars.

He is asking: What is the "pin to pin" measurement? Assuming he means from the top headstay attachment to the boat bow /bottom headstay attachment.


Anyone know?


Regards,

Rob


Rob Briede

(703)861-1397

El' BOB-Arino (E1610)

Peter Kogut

Rob,

According to ECA Rule Part II 6.A.

"The official length of the Ensign forestay from eye center to eye center including turnbuckle, toggle and any stretch when turnbuckle is pinned in its maximum extended position shall be no greater than 26 feet 3+3/4 inches."


I use Quantum sails and their tuning guide for the Ensign recommends that the best overall length for your forestay is 26 feet 3 inches and pinning it there and leaving it alone after that. This might vary slightly with a different sailmaker so you can check with your sailmaker. The idea is when you want maximum depth for power the forestay is at its full length and in heavy air to get a flatter sail you flatten your sail with mast bend by increasing backstay tension.


Hope this helps.


Pete Kogut

#856 The White Lady



Peter Kogut

Sorry for the typo, the class rule specifies 26 feet 3+3/4 inches maximum

Pete

Return to Forum
Sponsor Number URL address
Sponsor 1 https://www.quantumsails.com/en/default
Sponsor 2 http://www.triadtrailers.com/
Sponsor 3 http://www.ussailing.org
Sponsor 4 http://www.northsails.com
Sponsor 5 http://www.spectrumphotofg.com
Sponsor 6 http://www.defender.com
Sponsor 7 http://www.ensignspars.com
Sponsor 9 http://www.patterson-marine.com
Sponsor 10 https://stores.coralreefsailing.com/ensign_class/shop/home
Sponsor 11 https://zbloksun.com/

ENSIGN CLASS Sponsors